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There are three things that PulsaCoil owners NEED to know about:
1) Economy Seven Electricity Tariff:
2) The maintenance task they can do to avoid the occasional unnecessary
repair engineer visit.
3)The weird behaviour of the hot water when a tap is first turned on
Economy Seven Electricity Tariff:
Understanding the concept of 'cheap rate' electricity is central to
running a PulsaCoil economically. Due to the way electricity is
generated, there is surplus capacity during the night and this is sold
at a far cheaper rate than daytime electricity. You need to make sure
you are on the right billing tariff and have a dual-rate (Economy Seven)
electricity meter installed.
The most common cheap-rate (or night-rate) tariff is called
"Economy Seven", but there are many others according to which
you electricity supplier you have. Electricity burned during midnight
and 7.00am is typically charged at about one third of the price of
daytime electricity. PulsaCoils are designed to take advantage of this
price difference, and should be wired up so the lower immersion heater
(which heats the whole of the tank by virtue of being fitted at the
bottom - heat rises), is only powered during the night. The upper
immersion heater, which only heats the top one-third of the store, is
connected to the daytime (expensive) supply and is intended only to be
turned on in two circumstances. Firstly, temporarily by the user on the
odd occasion that the hot water runs out before the next automatic
night-time re-heat. or secondly, as a back-up should the main Economy
Seven heater element in the bottom of the tank fail.
Unfortunately, many users leave both immersion heaters turned on
permanently. This results in unnecessarily high day-rate (expensive)
electricity consumption, and worse, it masks failure of one or other
immersion heater as the other heater continues to provide hot water. The
first heater element failure only becomes apparent when the second one
fails too, and then there is NO backup element available to provide
emergency hot water. The back-up element is not intended by the
designers to be left turned on all the time for these reasons.
A maintenance task the the user can do to avoid the occasional
unnecessary repair engineer visit:
All PulsaCoils have a top-up tank to keep the unit heat store full of
water. Small amounts are continuously lost by evaporation and minor
leaks, and top-up tanks are conventionally connected to the mains supply
with a float valve, but due to difficulties installing overflow pipes,
many builders of luxury flats do not do this. The end result is that the
water in the heat store gradually reduces over a period of years.
Eventually the system stops working and the only action the repair
engineer takes to fix it is to top up the water with a bucket -
something the user could have done if they realised!
PulsaCoil 2000s have a separate black or grey plastic tank fitted
above them with a lid on it. Lift the lid off and top it up once a year
to about half-full. Sometimes there will be a water connection with a
valve the user can manually turn on then off again to do this. Other
times a bucket will be needed.
All older PulsaCoils have a circular grey metal top-up tank
incorporated on top of the unit. There is a tightly fitted white plastic
cover about seven inches in diameter that has to be removed to check/top
up the level. Again, the tank needs to be about half-full or more, and
there is a groove embossed around the tank as a waterline. PulsaCoil
IIIs have a float switch that shuts the unit down when the water level
falls too low.
The weird behaviour of the hot water when a tap is first turned
on:
This applies to the PulsaCoil III, PulsaCoil 2000 and the PulsaCoil
A-Class. The PulsaCoil and PulsaCoil II behave 'normally'.
When a hot tap is turned on, hot water is delivered because the heat
exchanger is hot, but the pump in the unit only starts running when the
heat exchanger cools significantly. This means there is a big fall in
water temperature about 30 seconds after hot water arrives at the hot
tap, and then it recovers. This is normal behaviour. When a hot tap is
turned on, firstly cold water comes out, then the water warms up, then
it cools again (as the heat sensor tells the pump to start), then the
hot water returns and the temperature becomes stable.
Many users notice this initial unstable temperature and (incorrectly)
think their unit is on the brink of going wrong.
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